The Iron Grip of Moldova

Whew, am I still alive? Apparently so :) Thank goodness! As you might have heard, I now have a job here in Moldova, and I’ve been having some real adventures. It is literally surreal to be back in an office environment after more than a decade of being a freelancer and working from home. I’m…

Locked in St. Michael’s Tower

It’s not every day that people are allowed to climb to the balcony of St. Michael’s Church, the architectural centerpiece of Cluj-Napoca. So when a visiting friend and I spotted people halfway up the tower, we struck while the iron was hot and took the rickety wooden stairs up. It was surprising how permissive the workers at…

Adventures in Legitimacy

The other day, an attractive young woman in a dress and heels handed me an envelope. When I looked inside, I saw it was stuffed full of euros and (Moldovan) lei. What’s this? Am I being paid by Russian gangsters, the CIA, or some other nefarious group? Nah. The truth is that I now have…